Weber State University (WSU) – Automotive Technology Department – Transmission Lab. This is the sixth in a series of videos on universal joints, constant velocity joints, and driveshafts. In this episode we learn how to properly install universal joints.
This video series helps partially cover the following NATEF Master Tasks:
3.D.1. Diagnose constant-velocity (CV) joint noise and vibration concerns; determine necessary action.
3.D.2. Diagnose universal joint noise and vibration concerns; perform necessary action.
3.D.4. Inspect, service, and replace shafts, yokes, boots, and universal/CV joints.
3.D.5. Check shaft balance and phasing; measure shaft runout; measure and adjust driveline angles.
3.E.4. Measure drive axle flange runout and shaft end play; determine necessary action.
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This video was created and edited by Professor John D. Kelly at WSU. For a full biography, see
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Man it really pays to have a arbor press and a shop. I just did my bearings on a old truck i got and used a 2×4 as a rest and a socket as a drift. Lets just say, i dont know if the ear was bent before or after i was done with it but the bearing went in. Truck seems to drive alright. If the bearing burns anytime soon ill do it again with a new drive shaft.
Who puts a thumbs-down on this video? Wow they must be dumb and want to stay that way LOL after watching these videos the main thing I learned is it the universal joint ain't broke don't try to fix it LOL just leave it alone because you'll never get it back as good as it was from the factory. So unless your universal joint is bad do not touch it
This series has been incredibly helpful in my U-Joint crisis. Thank you!
The only criticism I have is I don't see the need for the steel plate you used between the press plunger and the yoke. The plate is just another item to try and manage without a third hand.
The plunger is the same size as the contact surface of the yoke ears. Adding the steel plate has no advantage. You are not distributing the load, as you say. You are pressing directly on the same amount of surface area of the yoke either way.
It could be the washer of the steel youk flipped out while being removed in and out, I think there should be some sort of direction on it. One clip shows grove on it for the grease to balance its self across the nedle bearing and move from underneath. And this will add thickness if it flipped.
Really wish I had seen this video before I tackled my u-joints. I did them with a ball joint press but did not have the other tools. Thats the only way I have ever seen them done. I had the same situation where the snap rings were too thick and wouldn't go in. I sanded them down (hold your fire) to get them to fit. The joints felt good and free but I have a bad vibration from 40 mph and up. Worried I may have bent the ears on my yoke.
Thanx Prof.
I think 1/100 of a millimeter is less than half of a thousand, .00039. More accurate don’t you think?
Re. Tight snap rings / cir-clips: I had the same problem. The old bearing cups were very hard to press out of the steel yoke and needed a lot of force. After fitting the new unit, I could only get the snap ring to fit in one side of the yokes. The other side was now where near close to being able to fit into the groove. I even tried an under standard thickness snap ring but that would not fit. I therefore removed the new unit and it measured up. It was perfectly to specs. The only explanation therefore was that, under the force of extracting the old unit, the yoke ears had deformed inwards. This was confirmed by taking measurements of the yoke. The answer was to use an extractor in reverse to expand the ears back out to their correct spread.
Best U-joint video online. This addresses the complex issues that one might encounter. Great work!
Maybe common sense but make sure you have the snap rings all the way seated or your driveshaft will eventually come off, don't ask me how I know this, I was young and not as knowledgeable at one time 🙁
All these techniques are great if you're from the south. I'd like to see you use this press up here in new England and when the truck comes into the shop with 100k plus miles and it's all rust. This is great in a perfect world and on a brand new vehicle but unfortunately this isnt reality
Thanks Professor, what you need is a good set of plug gages. Keep up the good work we love th e videos thanks again.
Your fucking dumbass stupid as fuck a waste of fucking time go to hell dickhead six parts for a fucking u joint
Wow, been doing many things incorrectly for all these years 🤔
32:00 Seems like the final press-in to make room for the spring clips could be made easier and more uniform if — instead of a socket-and-bar arrangement — someone would make a pair of round shims/washers, of very specific thickness (like a U.S. quarter or multiple thereof), that could be applied to the face of each cup. This way, once they are pressed flush (both at the same time), you'd know each cup was recessed X mm inside the outer face of the ears. Have you ever tried such an approach?
There is an alternate tool for pressing in/out the cups :Tiger Tool 10105, https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Universal-Joint-Puller-Tiger/dp/B000FN4NV4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1514898896&sr=8-3&keywords=u+joint+tool. It does not look like it would ever bend in the yoke ears. Just thought I'd mention it.Great series & thanks for it.
Mr Kelly, You Sir are awesomely me. Thank God our country still has people like you to teach our children (young adults) how to do things properly. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!
My truck needed the Universal Joints replaced so i figured i'd YouTube a few videos to understand them and methods of changing them. I watched parts 1 – 7 of your series. Wife's kinda miffed at me however. i spent all last night watching these videos and even passed up 'Netflix and chill' offer from Wifey. she thinks i have an obsession with the 'gear thingy' as she calls it. of course I corrected her terminology and gave her a brief history lesson about these U joints. Needless to say… I got these U joints replaced today. I'll be sleeping on the couch tonight knowing I wont have to hear that annoyingly loud clicking noise when switching from Reverse to Drive. Thank You for the upload / Subscribed!
Professor Kelly, thank you for not editing out your battle with the snap rings. These are the exact type of problem we face in the real world, and it was valuable to see your decision making process as you worked through the issue. I've worked on cars for 30 years, and am greatly enjoying your videos. I'm amazed at how many little details I did not know, and have been doing incorrectly.
Maybe the ears were out of spec from the manufacturer
My experience has always been frustrating, I have taken them back apart assuming I had a needle sideways, then ground down the snap ring to make it go in. I have never known if it was right or not
a thousands of an inch is a finer increment than a hundredth of a millimeter
i listened twice to be sure that is what was said
0.01 mm is about 0.0004 inch, 0.001 inch is about 0.025 mm
so a thousands of an inch increment is about 2.5 times coarser n than a hundredth of a mm……
Where can I find the Spicer part numbers for the optional u joint snap rings?By the way I am working with 1350 series joints.
What did you end up finding with the tight u joint in the slip yoke? Why was it tight even with the thinnest snap rings? I have this exact same issue.
Great work, thankyou.
maybe the thrust washers were out of spec on the tight one.
I just had my u joint on my 2005 Toyota Tacoma TRD and my mechanic just used a hammer to remove and install the new part. I was shocked he did it this way. No balancing at all! I could've got a weekend warrior mechanic for $60 to do the same job. Not impressed!
Thanks, great video to👍
Are the Ford replacement u joints also made by spicer? just wondering.
"born to teach", thank you…
Good thing you are not paid flat rate!
Thank You for your efforts.and I need subtitle for this Videos I need for parts 3.4.5.6
and Thank you Again
Thank you for your time. This is a perfect example why understanding the Mechanical Engineering portion of cars is important in auto repair. Mechanics get bad reputation for shoddy work because they don't have understanding like this.
thank you , i just can not comprehend why they do not put grease zerks on anything anymore